Wandering in Antigua: a Travel Guide to Guatemala’s Most Touristed City

Antigua is probably the number one travel destination in Guatemala. Every year, thousands, if not millions, of tourists flood the city’s elegant collection of cobblestone streets, restored Baroque Spanish colonial buildings, and ruined fragments of towering cathedrals. All of it ringed by a series of sometimes smoldering volcanoes.

You’ve probably seen pictures of Antigua on the cover of Guatemala travel guides and blogs. Not only gorgeous, Antigua is also one of the easiest places to travel in all of Guatemala. It’s far more relaxed and much safer than nearby Guatemala City. It’s also only an hour or so from the airport. There are souvenir shops, tourist agencies and vegan restaurants aplenty. If you’re into that sort of thing.

I’m typically not into that sort of thing. Normally, I would’ve read the previous paragraph and been completely turned off. And yet, Antigua still has enough raw, Guatemalan charm to keep it interesting for even the most jaded of travel hipsters.

What to Know Before You Travel to Antigua Guatemala

Antigua is full of history. The Spanish founded the city after the local Mayans fought them back from their original settlement at nearby Iximche. They gave it the grand name of “Ciudad de Santiago de Los Caballeros de Guatemala.”

However, the Spanish soon realized why the native people never settled here. A series of earthquakes, floods and volcanic eruptions destroyed Antigua numerous times over the years. The Spanish finally threw up their hands in 1773 and moved the capital to present day Guatemala City.

But Antigua remained a stylish testament to Spanish colonial architecture and influence. The residents abandoned the city in the 18th century, leaving most of the ruined buildings intact. Antigua is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to the abundance of Baroque buildings and the Italian Renaissance inspired grid layout.

It’s probably one of the top colonial cities in all of Latin America.

Antigua is also a short distance from Guatemala City. You can even take a taxi there. Your hotel or hostel might even offer a shuttle from the airport.

Check out more about Guatemala here: Go to Guatemala: A Travel Guide Without the Tourist Traps

Safety While Traveling in Antigua Guatemala

Everyone and their mother seems to want to know if travel to Antigua Guatemala is safe. The short answer… yes. It’s perfectly safe.

I have personally wandered back from the bar after dark in Antigua with zero problems. It felt safer than many of the late-night stumbles I’ve taken back home in the United States. That being said, there are a few things to keep in mind.

First of all, locals specifically warned not to take the chicken buses (that is, the old school buses that have been converted into public transportation) between Antigua and Guatemala City. they’re often targets for robberies, since the buses make numerous stops and drivers carry cash.

I’ve also been warned not to hike up the famous Cerro de la Cruz after dusk. The government is adding security guards and trying to turn the hill into more of an attraction, but it’s still known as a target spot for thieves. In general, use your best judgement. Keep your passport and valuables locked up in your room. Carry only enough cash for the day. If you do get mugged, don’t ever try to resist. It’s not worth it.

A chicken bus on the streets of Antigua Guatemala

Other Safety Concerns in Antigua Guatemala

While I feel like the concern about crime is overblown in Antigua, there are a few other safety issues that are worth paying attention to.

First of all, Antigua is home to more than a few aggressive street dogs. Especially on the road leading up to Cerro de la Cruz. I personally know at least a couple of people who have been bit. Never approach a strange dog, definitely don’t try to feed them and avoid eye contact.

Secondly, those old, charming cobblestone streets may look nice, but they present a major tripping hazard. Pay attention to where you’re walking. Nobody wants to spend their trip in the hospital with a broken ankle.

Finally, the gorgeous volcanoes surrounding the city aren’t just for show. Eruptions can, and do, occur. The odds of a major city-destroying eruption happening during your trip is rare, but it does exist. You definitely might feel at least a small earthquake while you travel in Antigua. Guatemala rests right on top of those agitating tectonic plates. Most earthquakes are small, but read up on what to do in case.

More Travel Tips for Antigua Guatemala

Aside from safety concerns, there are quite a few other things I wish someone had told me before I traveled to Antigua Guatemala.

First of all, it’s surprisingly cold. Even though Guatemala is in the tropics, Antigua and the rest of the highlands are fairly high altitude. Antigua sits at about 5,000 feet. It’s not high enough to give you altitude sickness, but plenty high enough to make evenings chilly. Don’t’ forget to pack a light jacket and a sweatshirt.

Speaking of packing, don’t forget earplugs. Between the dogs, traffic and occasional fireworks, Antigua can be quite loud for such a small city.

The people in Antigua, and Guatemala as a whole, are also quite friendly. Even the guys you might see guarding buildings with assault rifles will smile and say “buenos días.” However, I have noticed that people are a little more formal here than elsewhere in Latin America. Maybe it has something to do with the chilly weather. If you speak Spanish, use “usted” instead of “tú.”

Finally, don’t expect travel to Antigua Guatemala to be cheap. I was surprised at how expensive things like hotels and restaurants were. The costs are a far cry from the U.S. or Europe, but way more than neighboring countries like El Salvador or Nicaragua. Antigua is still worth the cost, just plan to spend a little more than you’d think.

Colorful buildings and a bicycle in Antigua Guatemala

What to Do and See When You Travel to Antigua Guatemala

As the tourist center of Guatemala, Antigua is full of things to do. The absolute best thing you should do in Antigua is just wander around and soak up the colonial atmosphere. There are a ton of quaint little alleys and back streets to explore. There are also plenty of fantastic historic sights and buildings to keep you occupied.

Antigua Guatemala Historic Sights

Most of Antigua’s historic sights are conveniently located in the center, around the central park. The city is relatively small and compact, and it’s a lot of fun to just wander around and see what cool old buildings you can discover. Below are a few highlights to get you started.

The Santa Catalina Arch

The Santa Catalina Arch (or Arco de Santa Catalina) is Antigua Guatemala’s most famous tourist attraction. This is the thing you’ve probably already seen on the blog, guidebook or Instagram page of just about everyone who travels here.

The arch was built in the 17th century, as part of the Santa Catalina convent. The nuns in the convent weren’t allowed to go outside or see other people. They built the arch so that they could cross the street and not have to have contact with the outside world. The clock is from France and dates back to the 1800s.

When you visit, keep in mind that the street around the arch is usually incredibly crowded. You have to arrive very early in the morning in order to have any chance of getting a photo without the crowds. Aim for sunrise.

Clock tower of the Santa Catalina Arch, the most famous travel attraction in Antigua Guatemala

The Parque Central

The central park is the heart of colonial Antigua. It’s a lovely place to sit back, relax, and watch the life of the city unfold around you. Depending on the time of day you might see local teenagers making out, old people feeding pigeons or children kicking around the old soccer ball. Sometimes there are street performers or clowns. It’s a very festive place.

It’s also the place where you’ll see some of the most impressive of Antigua’s colonial structures. There’s the former palace of the Captaincy General, the bishop’s palace and the ruins of the cathedral. There’s also a fountain shaped like a mermaid with water pouring out of her breasts. If you’re into that sort of thing.

Mermaid fountain in the central park of Antigua Guatemala

Cathedral Ruins

Speaking of the ruins of the old cathedral, the Cathedral Ruins are definitely a must visit when you travel to Antigua Guatemala. While the façade has been rebuilt and restored to resemble its former 17th century glory, the inside is completely demolished. You can go inside and walk around and view the crumbling columns and piles of rubble of what was once one of the most magnificent Catholic structures in the Americas.

Cathedral Ruins in Antigua Guatemala

Ruins of the Recollection

The Cathedral Ruins are pretty good, but they are far from the best ruins in town. That prize belongs to the Ruins of the Recollection, or “Ruinas de la Recolección” en español. They’re located just a short walk northwest of the Municipal Market and bus terminal.

Here you can see the towering remains of a medieval convent. Witness the remaining elegant archways that sit among the rubble, and the towering brick walls with destroyed ceilings open to the sky. This being Guatemala, you can even climb some of that rubble. There are plenty of deserted corridors and narrow rooms to make you feel like an explorer rather than a tourist. In fact, you’ll be lucky if you see many other tourists at the Ruins of the Recollection.

The Museum of Colonial Art

If it’s raining, or you just get tired of being outside, you can stop in and visit the Museum of Colonial Art. The museum is set in an old Spanish mansion, and is worth visiting for the architecture alone. Inside you’ll find astonishingly well-preserved examples of mostly religious art ranging back to the 16th century.

Cerro de la Cruz

Cerro de la Cruz, or hill of the cross, seems to find its way to the top of almost every travel guide to Antigua Guatemala. To be honest, I don’t really understand why. The view is perfectly fine, and worth the short hike. But, in my opinion, it’s the least of Antigua’s many worthwhile sights.

The cross dates back to 1930, so it isn’t that historical. There supposedly used to be some structures on the hill that dated back to Spanish times, but the Guatemalan government took them down in order to build a large cement viewing area. The whole project was entangled in corruption scandals and protests, and some locals worry about flooding due to the deforestation. But, hey, the view is nice.

Again, the hill is a hot spot for muggings so don’t go after dusk.

Cerro de la Cruz, travel destination in Antigua Guatemala

Cultural Activities in Antigua Guatemala

Antigua Guatemala is home to more than just a bunch of baroque colonial facades and the crumbling ruins of convents and cathedrals. There are a number of unique cultural experiences as well that can be even more rewarding than simply seeing the sights.

Visit the Municipal Market

If you’ve never been to a Latin American market, prepare yourself. The whole thing is a vast labyrinth of commerce. Thousands of stalls line the walkways, each filled with goods ranging from fresh fruit to knock-off blue jeans to plastic spoons. It’s somehow both dark and colorful and it’s always a feast for the senses. You can also get your souvenirs here for much cheaper.

One of my favorite things to do in Antigua Guatemala was to visit the market. I’m not talking about the Mercado de Artesanias that’s near the Parque Central. That’s basically just a giant souvenir shop. I’m talking about the Mercado Central to the west of the center, just next to the bus station.

Keep half an eye out for pick pockets, put your valuables in a safe place and have fun.

Colorful market in Antigua Guatemala

The National Art Museum of Guatemala

Who knew that Antigua was hiding Guatemala’s best art museum right next to the Parque Central? The National Art Museum of Guatemala, or MUNAG is located inside the former Royal Palace of the Captaincy General. It contains a huge collection of Guatemalan art ranging from Mayan sculptures through the colonial era all the way to the present.

Modern Art is very hit or miss for me, but I really enjoyed getting a glimpse at how modern-day Guatemalan artists are interpreting the world. The museum is definitely worth a visit.

Kasa K’ojom Musica Maya: The Mayan Music Museum

Speaking of museums, Kasa K’ojom is a tiny museum located inside Finca Azotea, a little-ways outside of Antigua in the suburb of Jocotenango. It’s about a half an hour or forty-minute walk from Antigua, but well worth it.

The museum details not only music, but numerous traditions and festivals of the Mayan people. It’s a fascinating insight into some of the details of this unique culture and details the amazing synchronism between indigenous and Catholic religion. Check out the museum as part of a visit to Finca Azotea (see below). If you’re lucky, one of the curators might be around and give you an impromptu tour.

Semana Santa

Holy Week, or “Semana Santa” is the biggest holiday in Central America. It has nothing to do with Santa Claus. The celebration takes place the week before Easter, but you can see some of the festivities at any time during Lent, starting about a month or so before. It’s an absolutely massive event in Antigua Guatemala.

The holiday is actually a very solemn, spiritual thing for most local people. The faithful of every church in town take turns staging processions where they parade down the street in purple or white robes. Some of the people in the procession carry massive sculptures of Jesus, the Virgin Mary, or other saints and holy figures on their backs. Incense billows through the air and marching bands play solemn, slightly disturbing music. Street vendors scuttle around the marchers, selling bottled water, cotton candy and tiny purple or white robed dolls.

Procession for Semana Santa in Antigua Guatemala

Meanwhile, there’s also the “alfombras” or carpets. People use brightly dyed, colorful sawdust to create intricate designs and pictures in the middle of the streets. Each alfombra is masterfully crafted, and sometimes an offering of food or some kind of dried plant accompanies it. Then, in what I assume is a testament to the transient nature of existence, the processions march over the alfombras, kicking the sawdust into the air and completely destroying them.

Sometimes you can also see the alfombras inside the churches. These will be accompanied with huge displays of fruits and bread, artfully laid out on the church floor. The whole thing is an unforgettable experience.

Here’s the downside. Semana Santa is the absolute worst time to travel in Central America. Hotels are booked up way in advance and everything’s about twenty times more expensive. They say that up to a million people travel to Antigua Guatemala during holy week to view the processions.

If you want to see the Semana Santa celebrations without the crowds, come sometime during Lent. Different churches usually do a procession every Sunday. You’ll have to ask a local where and when exactly, but it’s a great way to get a taste of the holiday without the stress.

Alfombra, Semana Santa decoration in Antigua Guatemala

Day Trips from Antigua Guatemala

While there’s plenty to do in the city itself, there are also plenty great places to travel just outside of Antigua Guatemala. Sometimes you just need to get out of town, you know?

Volcán Pacaya

Guatemala is the land of Volcanoes. If hiking up a smoldering mountain of lava that could explode at any time is your idea of fun, then this is the place to be. Lots of people travel to Antigua Guatemala just to hike up Volcán Acatenango. That hike is hard.

Pacaya, while still a little bit tough, is a much more relaxed, chiller alternative.

You can arrange tours from any tour agency in downtown Antigua. You’ll likely get started at about 5am. When you arrive at the volcano’s base, a troop of little kids will rent you a hiking stick and a pack of stray dogs will follow you in the hopes of getting some dropped food. You’ll hike up the volcanic slope through avocado farms, cloud forest and scorched black volcanic wasteland. If you’re lucky, your guide will let you toast marshmallows on a volcanic fumarole. It’s fun.

View from Pacaya Volcano, an easy place to travel from Antigua Guatemala

Iximche

The Mayan Ruins of Ixemche aren’t nearly as famous, or impressive, as Tikal, Copan or others. They are, however, a great opportunity to get in touch with the local Mayan culture. Local indigenous people still consider the site a holy place and come to perform rites and rituals. It’s definitely the kind of place where having a guide is worth it to explain the customs and meaning behind the rituals. You can find a reasonably priced tour anywhere in Antigua.

Finca Azotea

If you want a day trip that you can do independently, Finca Azotea is a short walk or bike ride north of Antigua in the town of Jocotenango. It’s the home of the fascinating Kasa K’ojom Musica Maya I mentioned above, which is worth the trip in and of itself.

Finca Azotea, though, has more to offer than just this fascinating museum. It’s also a working coffee farm. You can take a tour of the museum on your own, or schedule a guided tour to see how coffee is grown. There’s also a coffee shop on site, and a couple of food stands selling delicious blue corn tortillas.

Most importantly, you can rent bicycles. There’s something magical about biking through the narrow furrows of the coffee fields. It makes for a very lovely afternoon.

Road through coffee plantation in Finca Azotea

Hobitenango

Finally, the corniest of all Antigua’s tourist attractions: Hobitenango. Some other blogs describe it as “middle-earth in Central America.” It is not. However, if you can accept the campiness of it all, Hobitenango can be a fun day out.

Very loosely based on Lord of the Rings, Hobitenango has one hobbit house and a couple of people dressed as wizards. There’s also mini-golf, archery, an extreme swing and plenty of gorgeous views over the surrounding valleys.

Look for the Hobitenango ticket office in town to arrange a visit. Just don’t think too much as to why anyone would build a Lord of the Rings themed tourist attraction in the middle of Guatemala.

A view from Hobitenango

Study Spanish in Antigua Guatemala

The Spanish schools here are fantastic. Some people travel to Antigua Guatemala specifically to study Spanish. In fact, it might be the best place to study the language in all of Latin America. The Spanish schools make Antigua an essential stop for anyone planning a longer trip through Central America or beyond.

We spent a full month in Antigua, studying Spanish at Spanish School Proyecto Lingüistico Francisco Marroquín. I highly recommend it. The price was good, the teachers were effective and classes take place in a lovely garden next to the wall of an old colonial ruin.

They also offer homestays, where you stay with a local family. A bad homestay can feel like you’re in a hotel. A good one makes you feel like you’re really part of the family. A good homestay can also really help your Spanish improve rapidly. Spanish School PLFM did a great job working with us to change our homestay when the first one didn’t work out.

Unfortunately, not all Spanish schools are equal. I heard some very mixed reviews from big chain schools like Maximo Nivel. I met a few people who had been studying there for months and could still barely have a conversation.

While I still highly recommend Spanish School PLFM, there are a lot of other options. Look over the reviews, and only book the first week in advance. That way, if the school isn’t for you, you can try another easily. Antigua has plenty of schools to choose from.

Colorful buildings on the street in Antigua Guatemala

What NOT to Do When You Travel to Antigua Guatemala

Unfortunately, the internet being the internet, there’s a lot of bad advice out there. The blogs are especially full of bad advice, geared more to getting you to click on their sponsored links rather than helping you plan a vacation. I suggest avoiding the following things when you travel to Antigua Guatemala.

Don’t Book Tours Ahead of Time

Unless you only have three days and you’re super anxious, there’s absolutely no need to book tours in advance. Websites like Viatour or Get Your Guide offer tours in advance, but they’re often three or four times more expensive than booking locally once you’re in town. Use Google reviews and visit a couple of places to find the best deal for you. You’re spoiled for choices of tour agencies when you travel to Antigua Guatemala. Things get busy, but they don’t get so busy that you can’t book everything you need in person the day before.

Spanish colonial archway

Don’t Take Day Trips to Lago Atitlán or Beyond

Many of those tour companies offer day trips to Lake Atitlán. Some even go futher out to places like the Copán ruins in Honduras. Lake Atitlán is definitely worth visiting, but it’s worth more than just a few hours. Spend the night and actually enjoy it. Unless you like waking up ridiculously early, spending the majority of your time sitting on a tour bus and being shuffled around like cattle with no time to enjoy anything. Then, by all means, do the tour. Otherwise, just go on your own.

Don’t Eat at Taco Bell

You’d be surprised how many tourists come all the way to Guatemala and eat at Taco Bell. Okay, yes, I will admit that the Taco Bell in Antigua is located in a gorgeous old colonial building. But it’s still just a fucking Taco Bell. You didn’t travel thousands of miles just to eat the same shitty fast food you can get at home. That goes double for Starbucks.

If you absolutely need some tacos, there are other, better, Mexican places in town. Frida’s, for example. If you want a coffee, head to Fernando’s Kaffee instead of Starbucks.

Don’t forget to try some of the local food, too. Rincón Antigüeño and La Cuevita de Los Urquizú are great restaurants for traditional Guatemalan food. You can also check out some of the street food or the stalls near the market for an even more local experience.

No matter what, I guarantee it’ll be better than Taco Bell.

Should You Hike Up Volcán Acatenango?

Volcán Acatenango is one of the top attractions, dare I say the number one attraction, on the bucket list of many people who travel to Antigua Guatemala. The chance to hike up to the summit of an active volcano is too great for many tourists to pass up.

I passed it up.

I talked to a lot of people who did the hike, and based on their description, I decided to skip Acatenango. For one, you have to get up early and spend the entire day scaling a steep mountainside, sometimes scrambling up loose gravel, other times nearly climbing on hands and knees. When you do get to the top, you stay in what may be questionable accommodations, at about 4,000 meters above sea level.

I’ve heard stories of people fainting and vomiting from the exertion and altitude. One woman compared the experience to childbirth. That doesn’t sound fun to me. What’s the point of going on a hike if you’re too exhausted or potentially sick to enjoy the views?

The hike can be dangerous, too. Aside from the fact THAT YOU’RE CLIMBING AN ACTIVE VOLCANO, you can also suffer from complications related to altitude sickness and even hypothermia. In fact, six people were killed a few years ago.

Ultimately, the decision is up to you. However, I don’t think the decision to hike up Acatenango or not is one to be made lightly. Do your research, go with a reliable agency, and make sure you take the precautions seriously. Otherwise, I thought other volcanoes, like Pacaya, were very lovely. I have zero FOMO.

Spanish colonial building

Ethical Travel in Antigua Guatemala

Whatever you decide to do, it’s important to remember you are a guest in a foreign country. When you travel from a rich country to a place like Antigua Guatemala, it’s important to recognize the privilege and power you have to use your money to either help or harm the local population. In short, don’t be a dick.

So how do you avoid being a dick? Learning Spanish goes a long way in communicating and connecting with the locals. You should also be choosey where you stay. Try to pick a locally owned hotel or guesthouse over Airbnbs or big chains. Eat the local food and shop at local businesses as much as you can. Avoid Starbucks and Taco Bell. I can’t stress this enough.

Also avoid haggling too much in the markets or with street vendors. A little bit of bargaining is okay, but it’s important to remember that your money has a much larger impact here than it does at home. A dollar isn’t all that much to a rich North American or European tourist, but it goes a very long way for a poor Guatemalan.

Finally, be sure to be respectful of the local people. Don’t take anyone’s photo without their permission. The Mayan ladies in the Parque Central are just going about their day, they aren’t here to be props for your Instagram account. Just ask. “Puedo tomar una foto?”

If you’re respectful, your travel to Antigua will be that much more rewarding. The city is the tourist gateway to the rest of Guatemala. It’s just about bursting at the seams with old colonial charm and nearby adventures.

When you get sick of Antigua, check out our travel guide to the rest of Guatemala here: Go to Guatemala: A Travel Guide Without the Tourist Traps

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