Some cities immediately blow you away with their beauty and energy. Santa Ana is not one of those cities. However, look beyond the first glance and you’ll find a charming and place with plenty to keep you occupied for a few days. You’ll also find a city full of incredibly friendly, warm people who would love for you to enjoy their hometown.
Santa Ana is El Salvador’s second city, though it feels more like an amiable large town. The city is charming and relatively walkable, with a crumbling colonial center and plenty of neighborhood pupuserias. It’s the kind of place where the sidewalk drunks greet you with a friendly smile and you might still see a cow wandering down the middle of the street on a lazy afternoon. Despite its laid-back charm, Santa Ana also makes an excellent base for day trips to nearby volcanoes, lagoons and Mayan ruins.
What to Know Before You Travel to Santa Ana
Santa Ana is the second largest city in El Salvador, after the capital San Salvador. Mayans first settled in the area during the classic period, though the Pipil conquered the area sometime around 1200. Then came the Spanish, who did what Spanish conquistadors do and killed and enslaved the natives. They founded the city named Santa Ana in the 1530s.
Santa Ana experienced its golden age during the first part of the 20th century, when it became a center for processing and shipping coffee. The city suffered greatly during the El Salvadoran civil war in the 1980s, which led to a large portion of the population immigrating to the U.S. and elsewhere.
Despite experiencing a post-war boom in crime and gang activity, Santa Ana is now perfectly safe. A lot of the economy relies on manufacturing and remittances from abroad, but the city is also trying to reinvent itself as one of El Salvador’s main tourist destinations.
Crime and Safety in Santa Ana
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Santa Ana, and most of the rest of El Salvador, is very safe and calm now. The gangs are gone, and there’s a palpable sense of optimism in the air.
We aren’t big night people, but we’ve walked around Santa Ana after dark and felt perfectly fine. I’m sure there are still some sketchy areas, but most of the city is perfectly walkable and generally full of friendly people who want you to be safe and enjoy their hometown. El Salvador is one of the friendliest countries we’ve been to, and the people in Santa Ana were some of the friendliest in El Salvador.
There was a group of drunks who liked to hang out and drink on the street leading to from our hostel to the central park. One lazy afternoon, I heard one of the drunks shout at us and I thought to myself “here it is, this guy is going to come and harass us or something.”
Instead of asking for money or hassling us, the drunk gave us a boozy “welcome to El Salvador!” Then, in broken and slurred English, he listed off all of the nearby attractions we could visit during our stay in Santa Ana. He was just genuinely excited to see tourists. Some of this blog post is based on that drunk man’s advice.
Transportation in Santa Ana
Santa Ana is well served by the bus network that crisscrosses El Salvador. It’s a small country, so nothing is more than a few hours away. You won’t need to worry about night buses here. You can take local buses from San Salvador and points beyond. If you’re coming from Guatemala, tourist shuttles from Antigua regularly go to Santa Ana.
The helpful website, Centro Coasting has information about how to get to different destinations in El Salvador and beyond. Be warned that schedules change often, so double check with your hostel before setting out.
The city buses within Santa Ana are a bit more confusing. We couldn’t figure them out without the help of a local. Luckily, most of Santa Ana is pretty compact and you can get around using the two feet the good lord gave you. Or spite His creation and take a taxi or an Uber.
What to Do in Santa Ana
Santa Ana has a walkable city center and a handful of lovely old buildings to admire. It won’t compare to other nearby colonial cities like Antigua, Guatemala or Granada, Nicaragua. But, definitely be sure to check out the impressive, gothic looking cathedral just off the parque central. The National Theater and Municipal Palace are quite lovely as well, and there are a few hidden gems lingering on the side streets.
Santa Ana is also a great place to try Salvadoran food. We had some trouble finding restaurants near the central park, but there were plenty of street vendors. A short walk north of the park leads to a leafy residential area with plenty of delicious pupuserias. The nearby smoothie shops selling fresh blended juices are the most amazing thing in the world on a hot afternoon.
When you’ve finished wandering around the city it’s time to do some day trips. There are plenty of interesting things to do within a couple hours bus ride from the center of town.
Hike Up the Santa Ana Volcano
Volcán Santa Ana is the highest volcano in El Salvador. It still only takes a few hours to make it to the top, so don’t expect the Andes or even Guatemala. However, just because it isn’t grueling doesn’t mean Santa Ana Volcano isn’t worth it. The volcano rewards those who commit to a moderate climb with stunning views of the surrounding countryside and a gorgeous crater lagoon filled with sulfuric turquoise water.
Guides are required for this hike, but it’s easy to join a tour at the base of the climb. You don’t need to worry about hiring a guide in advance. We went during Semana Santa, the holy week before Easter, and had no problem joining a group going to the top. It did feel like the entire population of El Salvador decided to hike up the volcano that day. Despite the crowds, I still had a great time.
You can take the bus number 248 from nearby the central bus terminal to Cerro Verde National Park. Be sure to catch the 7:30am bus to get to the park on time.
Visit Some Surprisingly Interesting Mayan Ruins
The Mayan ruins near Santa Ana aren’t nearly as impressive as those in Copán, Honduras or Tikal, Guatemala. You won’t see any intricately carved stones or towering pyramids here. However, for anyone interested in ancient Mayan culture, the collection of ruins in Western El Salvador are a must see.
The most fascinating site is called Joya de Ceren, and it’s only about an hour from Santa Ana. Joya de Ceren doesn’t have any major structures or sculptures. What it does have is a glimpse into the daily life of regular Mayan people. Ash from a volcanic eruption covered the village, much like Pompei, preserving the modest houses and village structures. Joya de Ceren gives a remarkable glimpse into what life was like for the ancient working class Mayan farmers and artisans.
If you really want to see some pyramids, you can stop by the nearby ruins of San Andrés. San Andrés has a few, relatively unimpressive, religious and royal structures. They’re pretty close to Joya de Ceren. We walked, though I would suggest taking the bus instead, since the sun is quite intense in these parts.
You can get to San Andres and Joya de Ceren by taking bus 201 to San Salvador and telling the driver where you want to get off. Be sure to keep an eye on your map and tell the driver again when you’re getting close. We didn’t do this and ended up having to cross the highway and walk an extra mile or so in the hot sun.
Speaking of hot sun, don’t forget to bring plenty of water and sun protection. There isn’t a lot of shade.
Swim in Lago Coatepeque, Central America’s Most Overrated Lake
It seems like every other blog, video and guidebook likes to sing the praises of Lago Coatepeque. The concept of a deep blue lake in a volcanic crater definitely sounds appealing. However, I personally found Lago Coatepeque to be a bit of a disappointment.
First of all, don’t believe anyone who compares Coatepeque to Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. Coatepeque is nowhere near as big nor is it as beautiful. Lake Coatepeque isn’t ugly by any means, but it just isn’t nearly as impressive as people make it out to be.
Secondly, there isn’t any public access to the lake. You have to pay to hang out at one of the lakeside bars or resorts. The price isn’t expensive, and in principle I really don’t mind paying for things. However, you end up feeling stuck in one place for the whole day. Instead of a natural lake shore, you just have wooden planks and jet skis. There isn’t any room to explore or walk around, just sitting at the bar.
Finally, aside from the handful of beach bars and resorts, the rest of the lake is surrounded by mansions and rich people vacation homes. This is where El Salvador’s elite comes to relax. I grew up in a working class family and I feel really awkward surrounded by luxury.
Now, I don’t want to be a hater. Lago Coatepeque is a pretty nice place to kick back and have a beer by the water. I just don’t think it really deserves the hype. It’s close enough to Santa Ana that you can visit for half a day and make up your own mind. Take bus number 242.
Did I Mention How Friendly People Are in Santa Ana?
I know I’ve said this a bunch of times before, but I feel like I have to say it again. People in and around Santa Ana were so gosh darn friendly and welcoming. The bar staff gave us free beers at Lago Coatepeque. We hitchhiked back from Volcán Santa Ana with some woman who shared her Uber with us. When we got back to the city, she walked with us to the bus stop and waited until the driver came so she could make sure we got to the right place. I have so many more anecdotes of locals in and around Santa Ana going out of their way to be kind and helpful to us.
Santa Ana has plenty of tourist sites to visit nearby. None of them are all that spectacular, to be honest. The main reason to visit here is for the people, not the tourist sites. Everyone just feels very genuinely excited to share their city and country with visitors.
Our time in Santa Ana almost felt like we were visiting long lost relatives. The city feels like a family of two hundred thousand people. Don’t come to Santa Ana for the lakes or volcanoes or even the ruins. Come to Santa Ana to experience the very best of El Salvador’s warmth and kindness.
Need more travel motivation for the rest of El Salvador? Check out our guide here: Exploring El Salvador: Central America’s Hidden Travel Gem is Ready to Shine
