Granada is Nicaragua’s charismatic temptress. The city, nicknamed “La Gran Sultana” exudes old-world elegance charm. But don’t let that refined outer beauty fool you into thinking she’s some kind of stuffy old maid. There’s a fiery passion that flows through Granada’s colonial streets, and a population of some of the warmest people you’ll ever meet.
Here you can find any number of gorgeously fading colonial buildings. The city center is laid-back and a pleasure to meander around getting lost in the alleyways and side streets. Granada rests on the shores of Nicaragua’s magnificent Lago Cocibolca, filled with lush volcanic islets and the occasional Bull shark. The city is also within easy striking distance of a smoldering crater filled with red hot lava and a calm volcanic lagoon.
I fell in love with Granada when I first visited years ago. My wife and I fell in love with the city again when we visited more recently. Spend some time in Nicaragua’s finest city, and Granada might just seduce you, too.
Things to Know Before Visiting Granada
Granada used to be the wealthiest city in Nicaragua. It still might be. However, you can still expect to see some pretty intense poverty just outside the historical center. The city has long been a bastion of conservatism. You won’t see as much pro-Sandinista or “viva Daniel” graffiti here as you might elsewhere in Nicaragua.
Before the 2018 protest and the pandemic, Granada attracted large numbers of so-called expats who flocked to the city to take advantage of relatively cheap real estate. They’ve since mostly ran away, leaving Granada feeling much less touristy and gentrified, but also lacking an important chunk of its economy. The city is much more interesting now than it was when it was the next big ex-pat hotspot, but it’s also much, much poorer. Your dollar will make a much-needed impact here.
Granada, as with the rest of Nicaragua, is very hot. Be prepared to sweat. Wear loose, light clothing and make sure to drink plenty of water. You can find any number of small stores selling batidos, fruit smoothies, that are the perfect thing for a scorching hot afternoon.
A Short Summary of Granada’s Long History
Granada is one of Nicaragua’s, and Central America’s, oldest cities. The conquistador Francisco Hernández de Córdoba murdered and displaced the indigenous population and founded the city in 1524. He named it after the Granada in Spain, in honor of Spanish forces murdering and displacing the Muslim population there. Nicaragua named their currency, the córdoba, after him.
Due to its ideal geographic position at the edge of the lake in between both major oceans, Granada quickly became a major shipping port. It also became a target for pirates, who sailed up the Rio San Juan and tried and failed numerous times to capture the city.
The city is historically a bastion of conservatism in Nicaragua. During much of the 19th century, Granada engaged in an almost perpetual series of civil wars with its liberal rival, León. It definitely still feels like a more conservative place today, although you can find pockets of radicalism if you look hard enough.
In 1855, another pirate of sorts, U.S. expansionist William Walker, conquered Nicaragua and declared himself president. He decreed English as the official language and reinstituted slavery. It took nearly the entire combined armies of every Central American country to finally kick him out. When he was forced out, he set fire to the city and put up a sign saying “Here was Granada.”
If you’d like to learn a little more about Nicaragua’s fascinating history, check out this longer but still insufficient post here: Understanding Nicaragua: A History Guide for Travelers to This Land of Resistance and Resilience
Is Granada, Nicaragua, Safe?
These days you probably won’t have to worry about pirates or North American filibusterers on your trip to Granada. Overall, Granada is quite safe. Maybe the safest city in Nicaragua. Obviously, things can happen. Keep your wits about you and don’t go looking for trouble and you’ll likely be just fine. My wife and I wandered around after dark with zero issues.
I do have a special warning to women, however. My wife did experience some cat calls and street harassment here. Technically, this is illegal in Nicaragua, but we weren’t really prepared to make it a whole thing and file a report. Your best bet is to do what my wife did: ignore them as best you can and then go back and commiserate to your partner. Unfortunately, toxic masculinity exists all over. At least there are a number of Nicaraguan feminists out there fighting the good fight.
Transportation to and Around Granada
Granada is easy to get to by local bus. It’s only about an hour or so from Managua where you can transfer to or from León should you so desire. It’s about three hours to Rivas for connections to Isla Ometepe. If you’re heading onwards to Costa Rica, it’ll take you a whopping eight hours to get to Liberia. Thankfully, the border crossing at Peñas Blancas is pretty straightforward.
For more information on buses around Nicaragua, I suggest checking out Centro Coasting. Schedules change, so ask locally before you set out. Or you could just go to the bus station and wait until you hear someone shouting “Granada! Granada! Granada!” The bus attendants in Nicaragua are wonderful, and in my experience always super helpful.
It’s also possible to visit Granada as a day trip from Costa Rica, but this is a stupid idea. Only do this if you like sitting all day on a bus and not having time to appreciate anything. Granada is best experienced at a leisurely pace and deserves at least a few nights of its own. I’ve probably spent about two and a half weeks there in total.
The city center of Granada is fairly walkable, even in the sweltering heat. You can find plenty of taxis swarming around if you need one, just be sure to always agree on a price before you get in the cab.
Do you want to stay in a hostel? Good for you. In that case, Hostelworld is probably your go-to app. Click on this link to book, and I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Win, win!
Things to Do in Granada
Granada is old, beautiful and elegant, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of exciting things to do. Just about every travel adventure that Nicaragua offers can be found either in or near the city. There aren’t a ton of tourist agencies anymore, but your hotel or hostel is usually more than happy to make arrangements for you.
If you absolutely must plan your activities in advance, may I suggest Get Your Guide. We’ve used them a couple of times and their tours are generally much cheaper than other sites. If you book through this link, I’ll get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Click here to see tours in Nicaragua.
Wander the Streets and Admire Granada’s Colonial Architecture
Granada’s biggest attraction is its historical architecture. The city isn’t nicknamed “la Gran Sultana” for nothing. Lovely, brightly colored Spanish colonial buildings topped with red tiled roofs fill Granada’s historic city center. You can spend hours just ambling through the streets and admiring the beautiful, fading architecture. Start on the west side of town near Plaza Xalteva, past the Parque Central and the distinctive yellow cathedral and follow Calle La Calzada all the way to the Malecón at the edge of the lake.
Just south of town, you can visit the chaotic and wonderfully authentic municipal market. Make sure to get a burger at Tostometro. I don’t usually recommend restaurants on this blog, but I feel like you can’t miss out on a burger served on a crispy, fried plantains.
Bike to Peninsula de Asese
You’ll see a number of people biking around Granada, possibly carrying propane tanks, which is an acrobatic feat that deserves some sort of award. There is also a lovely bike ride that doesn’t involve lugging around heavy cannisters of flammable gas.
If you’re feeling ambitious and the heat isn’t getting to you, you can bike all the way to the Peninsula de Aseses. The peninsula juts out into Lago Cocibolca like a weird curved finger and is surrounded by Granada’s famous volcanic isletas. It’s a lovely ride with some nice pastoral views of rural Nicaragua. Just remember to bring plenty of water. Turn right at the Malecón and keep going past the centro turistico and the picinic area.
Kayak Las Isletas and Look at Some Birds
They say it’s a shame to visit Granada and not see Las Isletas. These 365 little islands are one of Granada’s major tourist draws, and are definitely worth a half-day.
Thousands of years ago, nearby Volcán Mombacho erupted and blasted a bunch of rocks into the lake, forming the hundreds of isletas that surround Peninsula de Aseses. There’s one island for every day of the year. The islands are covered in lush, tropical vegetation. Poor fishermen traditionally lived on the islands, but today many have been turned into fancy vacation homes for Nicaragua’s one percent.
Ignoring the fancy vacation homes, you can find all sorts of bird life in and around the greenery covering the islands. We saw all sorts of egrets and cranes and some other things whose names I forgot. Monkeys also live on one island, but they were abandoned by people and are kind of an unnatural tourist trap now.
It’s possible to visit Las Isletas as part of a larger boat tour, but I think paddling in a kayak is a much better option. As far as I know, you still need to hire a guide in order to rent kayaks. Luckily, a guide is able to point out bird life you may have missed, and can give you some history and background about the islands. Plus, hiring a guide is a great way to put some money in the hands of the local community. Guides and kayaks can be hired at any number of little operators lining the shore.
Contemplate Mortality in the Cemetery
The wealthy population of Granada during its heyday spent their lives in some very elegant, stylish homes. They’ve also been spending their deaths in some very elegant, stylish tombs. Granada’s cemetery is full of classical and graceful tombs, crypts and ossuaries. It’s a glimpse into the city’s faded grandeur.
Eventually the lavish mausoleums give way to simple headstones and a somewhat misplaced field of grass. You might find a few malnourished horses or cows wandering about, grazing among the graves. The cemetery is southwest of the center, at the end of appropriately named Calle Cementerio.
Admire Some Authentic Nicaraguan Art
For being such a historical city, Granada doesn’t have a ton of museums. And, I hate to say it, but the museums of Granada’s age-old rival, León, are much more interesting overall. However, there are still a couple of places to go and admire Nicaraguan art and culture in the heart of Granada.
The Museo Convento San Francisco is located just at the northwest edge of downtown and is a must visit for art lovers and museum afficionados. The museum itself is set in an old convent, and houses a decent collection of artifacts from Nicaragua’s pre-Colombian cultures. There’s also a nice display of Nicaraguan primitive art. The primitivista movement started in the Solentiname islands in the 1970s as a way for local peasants and fishermen to express themselves. It’s colorful, intricate, and in my opinion quite beautiful.
If you’re after something even more edgy and modern, visit the Women’s Art Collective located between the Parque Central and the Malecón on Calle Calzada. This little art collective is run by a local artist who teaches screen printing and other techniques to local women and girls of limited economic means. The collective also helps fight against human trafficking and sex tourism, which are problems all too common in Nicaragua. It’s a great place to get a cool souvenir and an organization that deserves your money.
Take Spanish Lessons So You Can Chat with the Locals
If you like Granada and want to extend your stay, it’s not a bad place to take some Spanish lessons. I do have to say that the quality of schools here isn’t quite at the level of Central America’s other colonial tourist hotspot, Antigua, Guatemala. However, it’s still a very nice place to take lessons and improve your Spanish skills.
If you do take Spanish classes, make sure to opt for a homestay. You’ll sleep in the spare room of a local family. Not only will you have the opportunity to practice your Spanish more, but you’ll also get invaluable insight into the local culture and lifestyle and see a side of Granada that most tourists miss. You also might make some new friends.
I didn’t feel like I liked my school enough to recommend it, but a quick google search will show you any number of options. Read the reviews and choose what works for you.
Day Trips from Granada
Granada also offers more than history and colonial architecture. You can easily use Granada as a base for day trips to some of Nicaragua’s best sights. Transportation is easy, and organizing tours is even easier.
Stare Into the Inferno at Volcán Masaya
There are plenty of volcanoes throughout Nicaragua and the rest of Central America. But, as far as I know, none of them allow you to stare almost directly down into a pool of red-hot lava.
A trip to Volcán Masaya is definitely a highlight of any journey to Granada. The Spanish believed the volcano was a portal to hell. Staring down into the smoldering crater, breathing in the sulfuric fumes, you can almost believe they were right.
At some point, a Spanish priest climbed up the summit of the volcano and placed a cross at the rim of the crater. He hoped the cross would scare off the demons and prevent the eruptions that plagued the nearby population. There have been at least 19 eruptions since then. You can still see his cross to this day.
You won’t have to hike at all to stare into the Masaya’s mouth to hell. The parking lot is literally right next to the crater.
If you don’t have your own vehicle, you can arrange a tour from Granada. The tour will likely include a brief walk around the jagged black rocky landscape surrounding the volcano as well as some excellent views of the surrounding area. Then, you’ll wait in the parking lot until the sun sets so that you can see the bright, hot, red lava boiling below. It gets crowded, but we had no problems finding a good viewing spot.
Keep in mind, Masaya is still a very active volcano. Authorities have closed the park to visitors at various points during the past few years, and it’s very possible they may have to close it again for safety reasons.
Swim in a Crater at Laguna de Apoyo
The Laguna de Apoyo makes a nice, calm counterpoint to the burning red-hot lava of Masaya. The lagoon is also a volcanic crater, but the volcano is long dormant. Over the years, the crater has filled with water, creating a lovely blue lake. It’s a great place to swim, kayak or just kick back with a beer.
Laguna de Apoyo is located about an hour or so from Granada. Take a Managua bound bus and asked to be let off at “la entrada de Laguna de Apoyo.” You can then walk down the hill to the lake, wait for another bus or take a taxi.
If you have time, you can extend your day trip and spend the night at one of the hostels or hotels that line the shore of the lagoon. That way, you can go home saying you’ve not only swam in the crater of a volcano, but you’ve also slept in one.
When I stayed there, my hostel-mates did get mugged walking back from the bar at night. I would avoid wandering around too much after dark.
I Never Went to Volcán Mombacho and Isla Ometepe from Granada
I’ve been to Granada twice now, and both times I wanted to visit Volcán Mombacho. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to either time. I’ve also seen day tours advertising excursions to Isla Ometepe from Granada. Ometepe is a wonderful place, but it really deserves a few nights of its own.
Final Thoughts on Granada, Nicaragua
As I said before, I fell in love with Granada both times I’ve been there. It’s a gorgeous city full of friendly people and with plenty of activities to keep you busy for longer than you might expect. But there’s also something else, something entrancing about Granada’s lovely colonial streets that I can’t quite put my finger on. Spend some time here and you may fall in love with it, too.
For more places to see and things to do in Nicaragua, check out this post: Navigating Nicaragua: A Travel Guide to the Land of Lakes and Volcanoes and Revolution
