Colombia is quite possibly the most amazing country I’ve ever traveled to. It’s so amazing, in fact, that I’m finding it difficult to write about. How do you describe a travel experience that affected you so deeply regular words fail to describe it? Wonderful, fantastic, really good; nothing quite captures the almost transcendent experience I had in Colombia.
So, I’ll give up trying to capture that transcendence and stick to reality. Colombia has an amazing diversity of gorgeous landscapes including beaches, jungles, deserts and mountains. There are big, vibrant cities, tiny, pastoral villages and everything in between. The Colombian people are friendly and welcoming. And the food ain’t bad either.
On top of all that, Colombia is emerging from years of civil war and violent crime. While the country still has more than its fair share of troubles, there’s an infectious sense of optimism in the air. Colombians are welcoming of tourists as part of their country’s transformation.
Hopefully this travel guide inspires you to visit this amazing corner of South America and have a transcendental experience of your own. Or at the very least, have a decent time.
What to Know Before Traveling to Colombia
Travel in Colombia is an amazing experience, but it isn’t always easy. Due to the country’s turbulent recent history, tourism isn’t nearly as developed here as, say, Peru or Costa Rica. While that fact can make travel a little more complicated, it also makes the experience much more rewarding.
I definitely recommend learning some Spanish before visiting Colombia. You won’t hear much English outside of tourist hotspots like Cartagena, Medellin and Minca. Knowing even some basic Spanish will not only make your travels easier, but will also make your trip much more memorable and interesting.
Is Colombia Safe?
The question on the mind of every traveler (and their fretful mothers) probably isn’t “do they speak English in Colombia?” It’s the question of safety. So, is Colombia safe?
The simple answer is: yes.
If that didn’t convince you, here’s the more complicated answer. Colombia has without a doubt been to hell and back. The country was, up until recently, embroiled in a brutal civil war. It was also under the thumb of brutal criminal gangs like the infamous Medellin Cartel under Pablo Escobar.
But Colombia has recently turned a major corner. Escobar was killed in 1993. The government signed a peace treaty with the FARC, the country’s largest guerilla group, in 2016. This peace agreement effectively put an end to the civil war. Since then, Colombia has made great strides towards safety and stability.
That’s not to say that everything is perfect. Splinter guerilla groups still operate in remote corners of the country, and drug trafficking remains a big issue. Those issues, thankfully, are mostly concentrated near the border and remote jungle regions. Far from any major tourist destinations. While Colombia isn’t really the sort of place you want to stray from the beaten path, at least the beaten path in Colombia is still pretty amazing.
Avoiding Theft: Don’t Give Papaya
The main problem the average tourist will need to worry about in Colombia is petty theft. Cell phones in particular are targets for pickpockets and snatch and grab thefts. The best advice is to avoid flashing your valuables in public. The Colombians have a saying: “no des papaya.” This translates to “don’t give papaya”, which essential means “don’t flash your valuables in public.” It’s sound advice on the streets of Bogotá or the streets of Chicago.
Another advantage of speaking Spanish is that I found the locals were very helpful in telling us which parts of town to avoid. I felt very well looked after. Sometimes to the point where I wished my Spanish was good enough so I could say “I wasn’t born yesterday.”
The only “issue” we had in our three months in Colombia wasn’t really an issue at all. One time, we left our neck pillows in our seats while we got off the bus to use the bathroom. When we got back, we found that some lady and her kid had grabbed them. My wife asked her to give them back and she did. We felt a little bad taking a neck pillow from a mother and child, but it was like an eight-hour bus ride.
Traffic Safety
Speaking of eight-hour bus rides, let’s talk about the real dangers of traveling in Colombia. Most of the time, we talk about safety in terms of crime. I think this is a mistake, since tourists are rarely the targets for violent crime. And if you have travel insurance, petty theft is more of an inconvenience than anything else.
You are far more likely to die in a traffic accident. Drivers in Colombia are far more polite and reasonable than in other countries. However, Colombia is full of roads that twist and turn around narrow mountain passes. You’ll regularly see locals praying to Saint Christopher as the bus leaves the station. I never had an issue, but we did see a semi that had smashed through a guardrail dangling off the edge of a cliff.
Altitude Sickness
Dangerous roads aren’t the only hazard caused by the mighty Andes mountains. Higher altitude means thinner air and less oxygen. Colombia’s capital, Bogotá, for example, sits at 2,640 meters (8,660 ft) above sea level. It’s the third highest capital city in the world.
These towering heights can lead to altitude sickness. Most of the time altitude sickness will just cause some headaches, fatigues and maybe a little nausea. However, serious cases can lead to a whole host of scary symptoms, including fluid filling the lungs and brain swelling.
The general advice is to try and climb to higher altitudes slowly. Take time to acclimatize before you head to the next higher altitude destination. Unfortunately, that’s impossible if you’re flying. In that case, it’s best to give yourself a day or two to rest before exerting yourself. Drink a lot of water, eat light meals with lots of carbs and let your body adjust.
You can also try an almost magical remedy for altitude sickness. The coca leaf. Doing cocaine is illegal and immoral and if you’re traveling to Colombia to do drugs please leave my blog. Coca leaves, however, have been used for millennia by native peoples for all sorts of ailments. They work wonders for adjusting to the altitude. I had a miserable time with the altitude in China, but never had any problems in South America. For that, I thank the coca leaves.
The Colombian People and Culture
The best thing about Colombia is its people, who make braving the altitude worth it. Colombians are right up there with Salvadorans in the running for friendliest people in the world. They’re very welcoming towards tourists and generally seem excited to show off their country to foreigners.
Once again, I really suggest trying to learn some Spanish. If you know a bit of Spanish, you’ll find many Colombians eager to share their opinions about their lives, history, politics and whatever else. Being able to talk to and learn from the locals was easily one of the highlights of visiting Colombia.
Just like elsewhere in the world, Colombian politics are especially divided. As a foreigner, don’t assume you know everything. Take the time to listen to people and learn from their point of view. You’ll learn a lot.
Do be careful talking about Pablo Escobar and the drug trade. Colombians are anxious to escape their violent past and reputation. Most of them hate Escobar, and the ones who don’t likely aren’t the sort of people you want to find yourself spending time with. They also really hate that show Narcos.
As I mentioned before, however, you will find coca leaves sold throughout the country. Again, the leaves have been used medicinally for centuries. Don’t confuse them with cocaine. The Colombians have another great saying about this: “the grape is not wine, the leaf is not cocaine.”
Also keep in mind that time works a little differently in Colombia. Things go slower here. Showing up on time to a social event is considered rude. Food takes a long time to cook. Bus departure times are more suggestions. This kind of thing is heaven for a chronically late person like me, but my punctual wife had a hard time adjusting.
Finally, Colombia is an inexpensive country relative to North America and Europe. The reason for this is basically low wages and a shitty exchange rate for the Colombians. Don’t add insult to injury by constantly talking about how cheap everything is. Things aren’t necessarily cheap for the locals.
Food and Drink in Colombia
Although not as famous as Peru or Mexico, Colombia has some pretty good food. If you’re traveling on a budget, you’ll want to look for the set menus or “menu del día” for lunch. This concept exists throughout Latin America, but I think Colombia has by far the most varied and tasty menu of the day. They often come with soup and a little desert and are a great value. Vegans and the lactose intolerant should beware that Colombian food has a lot of cheese.
Colombia’s most famous food is the “arepa.” Arepas are basically thick corn tortillas and you’ll find them all over. Each region in Colombia has its own take on the arepa, and they can be sweet or savory.
Colombia also has a wide variety of delicious fruit. You’ll find all sorts of fruits that you’ve never heard of before and they’re usually all worth trying. I can’t remember the names of everything we had, so I suggest taking a day to go to the local market and pick out some fruits at random.
You’ll might have heard of the “hormigas culonas,” which roughly translates to “big ass ants.” Outside of certain areas, Colombians don’t usually eat insects. The vendors selling hormigas culonas in Bogotá are just out for tourist dollars. However, more remote regions, especially in the Amazon, provide opportunities for adventurous eaters to experiment with some authentic culinary insects.
Colombia is much more famous for its coffee than its ants. Chances are you drank some Colombian coffee this morning. In the country you can get everything from thick, sludgy, cheap “tinto” to delicious and expensive artisanal blends. I have to admit that Colombia turned me into a bit of a coffee snob.
When you want something a little stronger, you’ll find alcohol that ranges from cheap beer to “aguardiente”, a.k.a. “firewater.” I stuck with beer. Chicha, which is based on an ancient indigenous drink, is also popular, especially in Bogotá. However, I’m not quite sure if the locals really like to drink it or if it’s similar to the ants and more geared to tourists.
The Best Game in the World
While they’re drinking their beer or chicha, Colombians are crazy about football/soccer. In fact, I think it might be mandatory for South Americans to be obsessed with the beautiful game. However, there’s another Colombian sport that’s not nearly as popular but has a lot more explosive action. That game is Tejo.
Tejo essentially revolves around hurling a metal disk at a slab of clay. The team who gets closest to the target wins. It’s maybe similar to bocce ball or the unfortunately named cornhole. However, Tejo comes with a twist.
The clay slab also has little packets of gunpowder. When your metal disk hits these packets in just the right way they explode with a bang and you get extra points.
As you would expect from any activity involving drinking, throwing things and explosions, Tejo is a hell of a lot of fun. Or maybe I should say it’s a blast.
Transportation in Colombia
Colombia is a huge country and it feels even bigger due to the mighty spurs of the Andes mountains that cut through the interior. While internal flights are reasonably priced, Colombia is serviced by a very good network of long-distance buses. Buses are cheaper and better for the environment, anyway.
Many routes, though, take a long time due to the mountainous terrain. Be prepared for song very long bus rides. The good news is that Colombia’s buses are very comfortable. And the scenery you pass is often breathtaking.
You can book tickets at the local station if your Spanish is up for the task. Otherwise, the app RedBus is very helpful. We used it pretty extensively throughout our trip and had no issues. Just be aware that departure and arrival times are estimates.
Within cities, you’ll find all sorts of public transportation. The local buses can be a bit inconvenient and difficult to navigate in some places. Luckily, Colombia has plenty of taxis. Hailing a cab on the street is fine in smaller towns, but big cities like Bogotá have problems with pirate taxis. I recommend using Cabify. Cabify works similar to Uber, but you get a licnensed taxi instead of some rando. You can also have your accommodation arrange taxis for you.
Weather and What to Pack for Colombia
One of the most difficult aspects of traveling in Colombia is deciding what to pack. You may look at photos of the beaches near Cartagena and think to yourself: “Colombia is a tropical paradise. I should fill my suitcase with shorts and sandals.” Make this mistake and you’ll be in for a miserable trip.
Because of the high altitude, much of Colombia is quite cool. Medellin and the coffee region are cool and spring-like year-round. Bogotá can actually get downright chilly. At the same time, the Tatacoa Desert and the Amazon can feel like the inside of an oven.
You’ll need to pack clothes for warm and cool climates if you’re going to be traveling throughout the country. Cram those beach shorts and a jacket into the same suitcase. And you’re also probably going to want rain gear. And hiking boots.
Also, keep in mind that you can’t really bring a bunch of luggage if you’re going to be taking the bus. It’s best if you can fit everything into the same bag.
Stressed yet?
Take a deep breath and listen when I tell you it’ll be okay. We were able to fit everything we needed for Colombia and the rest of South America into carry-on sized backpacks. Compression bags are your friends. Keep in mind that you can wash underwear in hotel sinks and buy almost anything you forget when you arrive.
While Colombia is a pain to pack for, I can assure you it’s totally worth it.
A Short Overview of Colombia’s History for Travelers
Colombia has had a turbulent past, to say the least. Like the rest of Latin America, the country has suffered centuries of slavery, exploitation and imperialism. For me, though, one of the most amazing and eye-opening things about traveling in Colombia was being able to glimpse how people have overcome so much suffering and adversity.
The Spanish conquered Colombia in the early 1500s. Many were hunting for gold, lured the legend of El Dorado, which originates with Colombia’s native Muisca people. The Spanish conquistadors never found El Dorado, but they founded settlements and made Bogotá the capital of New Granada in 1549. The Spanish slaughtered and enslaved much of the indigenous population and imported even more slaves from Africa. In fact, some estimate as many as 40% of Colombians have African heritage. The second highest in South America.
Colombia was the first country in South America to declare independence from Spain in 1810. Led by the liberator, Simon Bolívar, the Colombians fought a long hard war against Spain and eventually formed the republic of Gran Colombia in 1819. Gran Colombia consisted of what is now Colombia, Venezuela, Panama and Ecuador. Bolívar’s dream of a united South America collapsed in 1830. Colombia then fell into many long years of strife and civil war between the Liberal and Conservative parties.
Colombia Goes Through Hell in the 20th Century
In 1948 things got worse when popular Liberal politician Jorge Elicer Gaitán was assassinated on the streets of Bogotá. Gaitán’s death kicked off a brutal fifteen-year period of death and destruction, simply known as “La Violencia.” Hundreds of thousands died.
Many left-wing Colombians, inspired by guerilla struggles elsewhere, took to the hills and formed guerilla armies such as the FARC, ELN and M-19. The conflict between these guerilla groups and the government turned into a vicious civil war. In fact, Colombia’s civil war became one of the world’s longest running civil conflicts. Over 200,000 people were killed and many more displaced from their homes.
It wasn’t just the guerillas and government involved in the fighting. Numerous right-wing paramilitary groups joined the killing as well. Some of these were funded by the Colombian and U.S. government, while others seemed to be more independent. Large multinational corporations such as Coca-Cola and Chiquita Banana have been accused of hiring some of these right-wing paramilitaries to intimidate and kill union activists.
Both the paramilitaries and the guerillas eventually turned to one of the most lucrative ways to make money: drugs. Fighters on both sides sold cocaine to buy weapons and equipment. The chaos, violence, corruption and poverty permeating the country were also the perfect conditions for the growth of the cartels.
Colombia’s most famous cartel, the Medellin Cartel, was headed by one Pablo Escobar. For some reason, Escobar is a sort of folk hero in the U.S. While he did do some philanthropic things, he also murdered countless people, including blowing up a commercial flight to get at one judge. He was a real jerk. Escobar died during a shootout with the police in 1993.
The civil war and drug trade led the U.S. to pass “Plan Colombia” in 2000. The plan involved sending millions of dollars to the country, as well as things like dropping agent orange on suspected coca fields.
It also didn’t really work. Cocaine production actually increased during Plan Colombia. Violence grew during the plans first 8 years. A number of U.S. trained Colombian soldiers quit their jobs to become mercenaries or join criminal gangs. Some experts argue the plan “postponed the prospect of peace for another decade.”
The State of Colombia Today
Thankfully, Colombia has turned a corner. In 2016, the government signed a historic peace accord with the FARC guerillas. This has been huge for a country that’s been embroiled in violence for nearly six decades. Nearly 9,000 weapons have been handed over, 12,000 combatants have begun the process of integrating with society.
Colombia’s supreme court also legalized same sex marriage in 2016. LGBT and women’s rights have been improving steadily in what was once a traditional, conservative Catholic country. A few years ago, the mayor of Bogotá married her wife on the main plaza in front of Colombia’s largest Catholic cathedral.
In 2022, after decades of conservative rule, Colombia elected its first left wing president. Gustavo Petro, a former M-19 guerilla, came to power promising to reform the country’s labor laws, healthcare system and more. He’s passed some reforms, but in general faced opposition from congress and Colombia’s entrenched political and economic elite. The younger generation seems to think he hasn’t gone far enough, while the older generation think he’s gone way too far.
Colombia also recently sentenced former president Alvaro Uribe on charges of bribery and witness tampering. Uribe was in charge during the Plan Colombia years, and has also been accused of paramilitary ties and human rights abuses, including accusations of killing civilians while claiming they were enemy fighters. His arrest and conviction is huge news in a country where presidents formerly acted with impunity.
Colombia’s progress is, like most things in life, complicated. You may have heard of the recent upsurge in violence from guerilla splinter groups near Colombia’s border with Venezuela. Or perhaps the assassination attempt of a potential presidential candidate. Despite incredible progress over the last ten years, the country still has a long way to go.
However, as a tourist, I felt a palpable sense of optimism traveling in Colombia. There’s a mood in the air of hope and progress rather than despair and desperation. A couple Colombians mentioned how they felt tourism could be part of the process of transforming their country. Although, that might just be who I mostly interacted with.
Still, I’m happy things in Colombia seem to be getting better. Happy for the Colombians, but also happy that this beautiful country is becoming safer and safer to visit.
Where to Travel in Colombia
The biggest problem you’ll likely encounter when planning a trip to Colombia is deciding where to go. It’s a huge country with an almost overwhelming number of things to see and do. Don’t feel like you have to see everything. I would much prefer to spend more time in fewer places than to spend my entire trip constantly moving from one thing to the next. We spent three months traveling in Colombia and still didn’t manage to go everywhere we wanted to.
Because parts of the country are still guerilla or paramilitary territory, Colombia isn’t the sort of place you want to stray from the beaten path. The United Kingdom has a travel safety map where you can see which areas are safe and which you should avoid. https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/colombia I generally find U.K. travel safety advice more reasonable than advice from the U.S. State Department. Reading the U.S. travel safety information, you feel like you can’t even walk out your front door.
Bogotá
Bogotá is Colombia’s capital and largest city. It’s a huge metropolis filled with trendy restaurants, fascinating museums and cool street art. It’s also much more than that.
Bogotá is Colombia’s cultural capital as well. It also might be the coolest city in Latin America. The Candelaria district, right next to Bogotá’s historic center, has an artsy, bohemian kind of feel to it. You’ll find bars filled with dudes in leather jackets listening to classic rock, teen girls with facial piercings skateboarding and maybe even a punk rock street circus.
Yet, despite being so hip and artsy, we never encountered the sort of snooty hipsters these sorts of areas attract in the U.S. Everyone in Bogotá, including the rocker dudes in leather jackets, felt very friendly and welcoming. It’s a rare treat to find a place that’s exudes coolness without judgment.
In addition to the cool vibes, Bogotá has a ton of things to see and do. There are museums, historic buildings, street art, parks and more. All of these things make Bogotá a must visit city.
Barichara
Barichara is a small town nestled in the mountains in Colombia’s northeast. It’s one of those little towns that’s so beautiful it almost doesn’t seem real. White washed Andalusian style colonial buildings with orange tiled roofs line cobblestone streets that date back to the 18th century. Beyond the town, the green peaks and ridges of the Andes mountains stretch out over the horizon.
Barichara is also home to some great hiking. One trail in particular leads to a nearby village down an ancient path used by indigenous peoples centuries ago. You’ll have to share the trail with the local goat herders. Barichara is also a short bus ride from the adventure sports capital of San Gil.
The Eje Cafetero
Visiting Colombia’s Eje Cafetero, or “coffee axis”, is about more than just the world’s favorite morning stimulant. The region is full of adorable small towns, lush green landscapes, tremendous hiking and a cool, spring-like climate. The Eje Cafetero is only a few hours bus ride from Medellin. The coffee’s also really good.
Jardín is a beautiful small town in the north of the Eje Cafetero region. The views here are amazing, as are the various hiking trails that spread out from the center of town. Jardín is a great place for birdwatching, and you can expect to see the famous Andean Cock of the Rock among others.
Salento is home of the Cocora Valley, where you can hike and see Colombia’s famous towering wax palms. The town itself is touristy, but also quite charming in its own way. Beyond the Cocora Valley you’ll find more hiking among breathtaking mountain vistas and the possibility to tour one of the local coffee plantations.
Tatacoa Desert
Sometimes the otherworldly rock formations of the Tatacoa Desert make you feel like you’re on the moon. The landscape is filled with all sorts of crumbling, twisted towers, boulders and cliffs, similar to the Badlands in the U.S. but more exciting because they’re in Colombia. Climate classification zone nerds will tell you that Tatacoa isn’t technically a desert, but rather a tropical dry forest. It gets too much rain to be a desert. In fact, erosion from rain is what caused the rock formations in the first place.
You can stay in the charming nearby small town of Villa Viejo or venture out to a remote cabin in the desert. On a moonless night, the Tatacoa Desert is the perfect place for stargazing.
Leticia and the Amazon
Chances are, you’ve heard of the Amazon rainforest. The world’s largest tropical forest is absolutely incredible to see up close. While the Amazon covers a large section of Colombia’s territory, the city of Leticia is the best place for tourists to get a glimpse of this amazing natural wonder.
Leticia sits on the edge of Peru and Brazil, but national borders start to feel meaningless when facing the world’s longest river and mightiest rainforest. In Leticia you can get a glimpse of how people still live in time with the changing seasons and water level of the river.
However, it’d be a shame to come all this way and not stay in the rainforest. Leticia is the gateway to jungle lodges where you can immerse yourself in the wonders of the Amazon. Just don’t freakout when you find a tarantula on the ceiling.
Mompox
Mompox is a sleepy colonial town on the banks of the Magdelena river. It was once a major shipping port, but then the river dried up and now Mompox sits somewhat lost in time. Some people say that it was the inspiration for the fictional town of Macondo in Gabriel Garcia Marquez’s masterpiece of magical realism, One Hundred Years of Solitude. This may or may not be true, but the reality is Mompox is definitely a magical place.
It’s a pain in the ass to get to, but worth it for fans of Garcia Marquez, or anyone looking to while away the hours in a sleepy river town.
Cartagena
Colombia’s biggest and most famous colonial towns is far from sleepy. Cartagena is a rollicking city on the shores of the Caribbean that parties all night. Bring earplugs if you’re a morning person.
Cartagena’s old colonial center is gentrified and touristy, but also one of the most gorgeous old colonial centers in all of Latin America. Just outside the old city walls, you’ll find a living, breathing neighborhood where the centuries old buildings still house people and not just Airbnbs. At night, both locals and tourists mingle in sidewalk bars, sipping beer and maybe catching the break dancers performing in the ancient plaza.
I usually can’t stand Caribbean touristy party towns, but I loved Cartagena.
Villa de Leyva
Villa de Leyva is only a few hours from Bogotá, but it’s a world away from the big city. This gorgeous little mountain town is full of colonial buildings, cobblestone streets and dazzling mountain views. The central square is enormous, and at night fills with people, both locals and tourists, who while away the evening with cold beer and conversation. There’s also a small paleontology museum for those fossil heads out there.
Guatapé
Just a few hours outside of Medellin lies Colombia’s most famous rock. El Peñón de Guatapé is an incongruous hunk of granite that towers over the surrounding landscape. It’s cool, but pretty touristy.
Nearby, the town of Guatapé is a nice small town, famous for its colorfully decorated houses. It doesn’t shine as bright as some of Colombia’s other small towns, but Guatapé is still a charming enough place and worth a stop.
Medellin
The blogs and guidebooks have probably hyped-up Medellin more than any other Colombian travel destination. Medellin has transformed itself from the most dangerous city in the world to a trendy digital nomad destination. Surely, it’s a nice enough city with plenty to do and see. Unfortunately, I don’t think it quite lives up to all the hype. I prefer the edgy, artsy vibes of Bogotá to Medellin’s glitz and glamor.
On the other hand, Medellin is still worth a visit. Even just to hear the fascinating story of how this formerly crime riddled danger zone transformed itself into a global tourist hotspot.
Destinations to Avoid in Colombia
I love Colombia, and in general, I don’t think you can go wrong choosing where to visit. However, not all of Colombia was created equal. The places listed above are all amazing and worth visiting. The places listed below, on the other hand, are overhyped and skippable.
None of them are bad, per se. It’s just that Colombia has so many other more amazing destinations. Why waste hours on the bus going somewhere that’s just okay?
El Poblado Neighborhood in Medellin
El Poblado is probably the most hyped-up neighborhood in all of Colombia. This wealthy enclave of Medellin is incredibly overrated. It’s full of tourists and expats, and one of the few places in the country where you’ll probably hear more English than Spanish. All of the shops and restaurants are basically the same overpriced shops and restaurants you get in any gentrified neighborhood anywhere in the world.
The only good thing about El Poblado is that at least it wasn’t gentrified by over tourism. I may be wrong, but I think this was always the upper-class part of Medellin. It’s home of the rich and glamorous and should be avoided at all costs.
Minca
Aside from El Poblado, I think Minca might have been my least favorite place in Colombia. This small mountain town, nestled amid lush green forests is considered by many to be a must-visit destination. On paper, at least, it seemed like it would tick all my boxes. It ended up just ticking me off.
I was told Minca had a lot of hiking. These “hikes” were just walks along the edges of busy roads with motorcycles and trucks whizzing by. We maybe found one or two “trails” that seemed shorter than the distance between our room and the hostel bathroom.
Minca itself is pretty, but it’s full of the same old boring, vegan Thai yoga restaurants you find in every other over hyped travel destination. It’s a shame, because the area surrounding Minca is very pretty. It’s just soulless
Filandia
Filandia is another town in Colombia’s Eje Cafetero. It’s not a bad town, but it’s nowhere near as nice as Salento or Jardin. A local recommended Filandia to us as a less touristy alternative to Salento. We went there and felt way more overwhelmed by the souvenir shops and overpriced restaurants than we ever did in Salento.
On top of that, Filandia doesn’t have any hiking or activities to really draw you in. It wasn’t necessarily a bad place, it’s just that Salento and Jardin are much better. Sometimes the popular places are popular for a reason.
San Gil
I actually really liked San Gil. It’s a small city with 19th century architecture and a magnificent city park that’s fantastic for bird watching. It’s also Colombia’s adventure sports capital. You can go rafting or paragliding and probably do a bunch of other things here, too.
The only problem with San Gil is that Barichara, one of Colombia’s most beautiful destinations, is only a half an hour away. Stay in Barichara and hop the bus into San Gil.
Bucaramunga
Bucaramunga isn’t hyped in the travel blogs or listed on any must-see destination lists for Colombia. It’s a quiet city near the border with Venezuela. The city itself is very nice. It’s quiet, clean, and there are a number of parks. It’s also very boring.
I imagine Bucaramunga is a lovely place to live. It just isn’t a very interesting place to visit. That’s okay. Sometimes the travel blogs and guidebooks don’t mention a place for a reason. Colombia has so many other exciting cities there’s no reason to spend your time here.
Final Thoughts on Colombia
I hope that I’ve conveyed how much I enjoyed my three months traveling in Colombia. I don’t think I’ve fully conveyed how traveling in Colombia changed me as a person. Maybe I don’t fully understand it myself.
But let’s leave aside those deep, life-altering, existential feelings for a moment. Colombia has pretty much anything you’d want in a travel destination. The people are friendly. The scenery is varied and beautiful. The history is fascinating. And the food ain’t bad, either.
Do yourself a favor and ignore the travel safety concerns of your friends, family and State Department. Take the time to visit Colombia and be open to letting this magical corner of South America change you as well.
