Bogotá is a very cool city. Colombia’s capital somehow manages to meld historic charm and punk rock attitude. It’s a place where old Spanish buildings and republican monuments stand alongside avant-garde graffiti and hip underground bars. Vendors hawking used books line the sidewalks. As night falls, the cool kids gather in a 16th century plaza to watch break dancers and impromptu circuses.
Bogotá might be one of the coolest cities in the world.
Yet, despite being such a cool place, for some reason Bogotá doesn’t have the international reputation it should. I hear of all sorts of travelers who skip this vibrant capital in favor of, in my opinion, less exciting cities like Medellin.
Their loss, really, because few other cities will ever match the vibe of Bogotá. Keep reading this travel guide to discover more about Colombia’s most amazing city and maybe you can become one of the cool kids, too.
What to Know Before Traveling to Bogotá
Bogotá is Colombia’s capital and largest city. In fact, Bogotá’s population is over eight million, about the size of New York. That makes it the third largest city in South America. If you aren’t used to big cities, Bogotá’s size can seem a little intimidating. Don’t worry. You’ll probably never have to venture to the outskirts. Most of Bogotá’s attractions are located fairly centrally.
Food in Bogotá
As with any large, modern city, Bogotá is full of restaurants. You can find everything from Colombian dives set in the dark corner of a crumbling colonial building to hipster bistros as gentrified as anything you’d find in the trendier neighborhoods of North America.
For those on a budget, look for the “menu del día”, which is a set menu of the day. These set meals in Colombia were by far the best value we found anywhere. You get a quality meal, a drink and sometimes desert for a very reasonable price. Sometimes you even find a menu del día in one of the hipster bistros.
A Very Brief Introduction to Bogotá’s History
People have settled in the area of what is now Bogotá for thousands of years. The indigenous Muisca were living there before the Spanish came. They called their town “Bacatá.” The Spanish arrived in the 1500s, searching for gold and just generally looting and pillaging. Their settlement of Santa Fe grew over the years and eventually became the capital of the Viceroyalty of New Granada.
In 1819, the great South American liberator, Simón Bolívar, fought his way into the city and rechristened it as “Bogotá” in a lightly misunderstood honor of the original inhabitants. Bogotá became the capital of Bolívar’s dream country of Gran Colombia. When that broke up in 1831, Bogotá became the capital of regular Colombia.
In 1948, liberal leader and presidential candidate, Jorge Eliécer Gaitán, was assassinated on the streets of Bogotá. This assassination sparked a wave of violence known simply as “la violencia”. Later, leftist guerillas took to the hills and battled government and right-wing paramilitaries. Thousands of poor rural residents streamed into the city’s hillside slums escaping the violence.
Today, Bogotá is trying its best to recover from its violent past. The city has invested a lot into things like public transportation and education, building a bus system and numerous schools and libraries. Colombia’s first left-wing president, Gustavo Petro, experimented with progressive policies here during his stint as mayor. The city still suffers from numerous issues, though, including worries about crime.
Is Bogotá Safe?
There’s no doubt Bogotá has a bad reputation. This bad reputation is probably why many tourists and expats avoid the city. And it’s not just the gringos who are worried about crime. Just over 58% of the city’s residents say they feel unsafe.
However, as with the United States, perception of crime often doesn’t match up with reality. While Bogotá’s murder rate recently rose to about 15 homicides per 100,000 people. That’s far under the murder rate for U.S. cities like Chicago, New Orleans, and, as you may have heard from a certain president, Washington D.C. In fact, Bogotá’s murder rate is actually about the same as Syracuse, New York.
Many of the murders in Bogotá, like in most big cities, are mainly due to territorial battles between gangs. The average tourist is probably going to be very far from any gang battles. For most of us visiting Bogotá, we just have to worry about petty theft.
My wife and I wandered around Bogotá at night and had zero problems. Granted, late at night for us is like 10pm, but still. I’m sure you could find trouble if you went looking for it. Like any other major city, Bogotá has its share of drugs and prostitution.
However, I’m sure anyone reading my blog has no interest in those sorts of things. In that case, you just need to keep your wits about you as you would in Chicago or Syracuse. As the Colombians say, “no des papaya” which means “don’t give papaya.” That is to say, don’t wave your valuables around when you’re out in public, so you don’t tempt thieves. Of course, pull your phone out to check directions or take pictures. Just be mindful of it and your suroundings.
Bogotá really isn’t any scarier than any other big city. It definitely doesn’t deserve the bad reputation it has. Also, keep in mind that stoking unrealistic fears about crime is a classic right-wing authoritarian move.
Altitude Sickness
While I don’t think you’re likely to be affected by crime in Bogotá, you definitely, absolutely, will be affected by the altitude.
Bogotá sits at 2,640 meters (8,660 ft) above sea level. It’s the third highest capital city, and the largest high-altitude city, in the world. This means that despite Bogotá’s tropical location, the city’s weather is also quite cool. Sometimes even downright chilly. It can be hard to adjust if you’re coming from a hotter climate. We had to buy winter coats from some guy off the street.
The high altitude also means there’s a chance of getting altitude sickness. Symptoms of altitude sickness include nausea, dizziness, shortness of breath and can lead to horrible things like fluid in the lungs or brain swelling.
Traditional wisdom says that you can prevent altitude sickness by climbing up slowly. Take your time and only ascend a few hundred meters a day. You should also sleep at a lower altitude than where you spend your waking hours. This is good advice, but basically impossible if you’re flying in to Bogotá from somewhere else.
In that case, make sure you give yourself at least a full day to rest and adjust to the altitude. Take it easy, eat light, and drink plenty of water.
You should also take advantage of Colombia’s almost magical cure for altitude sickness: the coca leaf.
Yes, these are the same leaves used to make cocaine. No, they will not get you high. They’re a medicinal herb that’ve been used for centuries. They work wonders helping to adjust to the altitude. The Colombians have another great saying about this. “The grape is not wine; the leaf is not the cocaine.” You can buy coca leaves at markets and shops throughout the city, especially in La Candelaria.
Bus Transportation to and from Bogotá
Bogotá is not only the political and economic center of Colombia, it’s also the country’s main transportation hub. An infinite army of long-distance buses marches out from the capital every day to the farthest reaches of the country.
Most buses come and go from the central Terminal de Transportes, more commonly called Terminal Salitre. However, Bogotá also has north and south satellite terminals, so just be sure to double check which one you need before you set out.
You can buy tickets from booths at the bus stations. If you want to get tickets in advance, I had excellent luck using the app RedBus for almost all our bus tickets in Colombia. Prices are reasonable and most of the long-distance buses are actually quite comfortable.
How to Get Around in Bogotá
For trips within the city, Bogotá has a rapid bus transit system called the TransMilenio. You’ll need to buy a card, which you can get at certain stations. Otherwise, we were able to buy ours through our hostel. They may also be available at some convenience stores.
The TransMilenio buses are quick and comfortable during the middle of the day and are over-crowded, slow and awkward during rush hour. While its fun to see the break dancers or other performers who sometimes come on to the bus during peak times, I’d really recommend avoiding them during rush hour. I spent three hours stuck in traffic on a TransMilenio bus. The bus was packed so I had to stand most of the way, too. That was maybe my least favorite moment in Bogotá.
If the TransMilenio feels overwhelming, you can always take a taxi. Almost everybody discourages hailing cabs on the street, since Colombia does have issues with pirate taxis. I suggest using the app Cabify. Cabify works just like Uber, but you end up getting a licensed taxi instead of some rando.
Bogotá, despite being hilly and at a ridiculously high altitude, is also surprisingly bike friendly. The city closes down major streets on Sunday for the “Ciclovia.” Locals take to the roads on bikes, skateboards or just their own two feet. It’s fun, but kind of weird to see major thoroughfares sitting empty. Bogotá also has a number of bike lanes and it may be possible to rent a bicycle from your hostel.
Bogotá’s Neighborhoods
Bogotá is an enormous city that sprawls for miles in every direction. Though it looks overwhelming on the map, most of the areas of interest to the average tourist are located fairly centrally.
La Candelaria
Bogotá’s historic center and old colonial district is known as La Candelaria. La Candelaria is probably the place where most tourists spend most of their time. The majority of Bogotá’s big museums and historic sights are here.
La Candelaria, unlike the heavily gentrified and over-touristed colonial centers in other cities, is a living, breathing neighborhood. You’ll see locals living their lives in La Candelaria, oblivious to the needs and wants of tourists. It’s a nice contrast to places like Panama City or even Cartagena. La Candelaria has a sort of hip, artsy vibe, yet feels refreshingly unpretentious.
Santa Fe
North of La Candelaria is the Santa Fe district. As you cross the border from La Candelaria, you’ll start to see the colonial homes and brick buildings replaced by modern concrete structures. Santa Fe also has a number of museums and a couple universities. It’s also where you can catch the cable car up to Monserrate. It’s an okay part of town, but nowhere near as charming as La Candelaria.
Chapinero
Heading further north of Santa Fe, you’ll find the bourgeoise district of Chapinero. Chapinero is where Bogotá’s fancy hipster bistros and young professionals live. It reminds me a bit of neighborhoods like El Poblado in Medellin or Condesa in Mexico City.
Chapinero is where Bogotá’s bad reputation is really an asset, however. The city’s ill repute seems to have kept out the waves of expats and digital nomad that have swarmed those other upscale neighborhoods. So, while you’ll find plenty of yuppies here, at least they’re local yuppies.
Teusaquillo
West of Chapinero and Santa Fe lies the middle-class residential neighborhood of Teusaquillo. Teusaquillo is a perfectly fine part of town, but it doesn’t have much to recommend it to the average traveler. It’s probably a nicer place to live than it is to visit.
One thing you might want to do in Teusaquillo is visit the lovely Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar. The U.S. embassy is also in this part of town, but you’ll probably only want to go to the embassy if you lose your passport or something. Let’s hope that doesn’t happen. If you do need to head to the embassy, just look for the giant walled compound that resembles a super villain’s fortress.
Where to Stay in Bogotá
La Candelaria is, in my opinion, by far the best neighborhood in Bogotá. You should stay in La Candelaria. Especially if you’re a first-time visitor. You’ll have the best of what Bogotá has to offer right at your doorstep.
For those of you looking for a hostel, Ulucaho Hostel is a nice little place in the middle of La Candelaria. The staff is nice, they serve breakfast and the space is cute. They also offer the option to stay in a teepee, for some reason. Culturally questionable room options aside, it’s a nice place. Bring ear plugs. You can click here to book at Ulucaho Hostel.
If you’re looking for something a little more upscale without breaking the bank, we also stayed at Hotel Casa de la Vega during our third and final stint in Bogotá. Very classy. Well, classy for dirt bags like me, anyway. Casa de la Vega is a hotel in a converted old colonial building and it just oozes with charm. Click here to book Hotel Casa de la Vega.
Finally, if you want a break from the action in La Candelaria, or maybe you’ve got an important early meeting with the U.S. state department staff at the embassy, Corazon de Molino is located in the Teusaquillo neighborhood. It’s on a quiet street and feels like something between a hotel and an Airbnb. Click here to book Corazon de Molino.
If you book using any of the above links, I will get a small percentage at no extra cost to you. You get to stay in a good place, while basking in the satisfaction of supporting an independent travel blog.
On one of the most fun, but also most stressful, aspects of travel is finding and booking places to stay. These days you have options ranging from dirt cheap hostel dorms to luxurious White Lotus style resorts. Thankfully, the internet is here to make finding accommodation easier.
Hostelworld is the go to app for finding hostels. For everything else, there’s Booking.com. If you book through either of the previous links, I’ll gain a small commission at no extra cost to you.
What to do in Bogotá
Bogotá is bursting at the seams with interesting things to see and do. You’ll find plenty of museums, coffee shops, bars, restaurants, parks and flea markets to keep you busy for as long as you want to stay in the city. Maybe even longer.
If you’re short on time, I would say that wandering La Candelaria (possibly as part of a walking tour) and visiting the Museo de Oro and the Botero Museum are the three must-do activities in Bogotá. Otherwise, the city is full of possibilities.
Wander La Candelaria
I’m a huge fan of wandering while I travel. I can spend hours walking the streets and taking in the sights and atmosphere of a new place. Bogotá’s La Candelaria district feels like its specially made for my aimless ambling. The architecture is magnificent, and buildings range from centuries old Spanish colonial houses to opulent 19th century republican monuments.
The neighborhood is centered on Plaza Bolívar, a massive public square surrounded by beautiful architecture. You’ll find the city’s major cathedral, as well as Colombia’s main government buildings alongside the square.
But La Candelaria is so much more than some stuffy old buildings. We saw a major labor rally in Plaza Bolívar our first day in Colombia. On other days the square is filled with snack vendors and people just hanging out. The side streets bustle with Colombians living their lives, from government bureaucrats having coffee between meetings to college kids grabbing lunch between classes. La Candelaria is also hip and artsy, but not at all conceited and surprisingly welcoming.
The old buildings also sit side by side with some pretty amazing street art. Bogotá is famous for its murals and graffiti, and a lot of those murals and graffiti are found in La Candelaria. Some streets feel like a large open-air modern art museum.
At night, La Candelaria’s bars come to life. You have your pick of any number of nightlife choices, ranging from underground rock bars to tejo clubs to salsatecas. Everywhere we went felt very welcoming, even when we were the only gringos in the place. Even when we were woefully underdressed.
La Candelaria’s best nightlife, however, isn’t in the bars or clubs. It’s at Chorro de Quevado square, a small colonial plaza a few blocks east of Plaza Bolívar, on the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle 12b. This little Spanish plaza really comes alive after the sun goes down. Crowds of young Colombians gather to hang out, drink and watch the various street performers. We saw a sort of punk rock circus act, but you might also find break dancers or Michael Jackson impersonators.
Take a Free Walking Tour
Every other travel blog recommends free walking tours. I avoided doing them for a long time, just to be contrarian. Then, we finally broke down and decided to take a free walking tour in Bogotá for the first time. It was totally worth it and I regret not doing it earlier.
The walking tours aren’t exactly free. You pay a tip to the guide, theoretically based on how well you liked the tour. I think you should tip regardless, since this is how the guides make a living. But I’m from the United States and we have a weird tipping culture.
Anyway, our tour in Bogotá was super interesting. The guide covered everything from Bolívar to Gaitan to coffee. I’m pretty sure we went with Beyond Colombia, but I can’t remember exactly. We just found a flyer in our hostel.
Whoever you take your walking tour with, just be sure the guide is an actual Colombian. You’d be surprised how many gringos move down to Latin America on a tourist visa and work illegally as tour guides.
Take the Cable Car Up to Monserrate
Your walking tour guide, as well as everyone else, will likely recommend taking the cable car up to Monserrate. Monserrate is a former Catholic monastery turned tourist attraction. Up top you’ll find expensive restaurants and some very charming old buildings. You also might find an expansive view of the city of Bogotá, though it was dreadfully cloudy the day we went.
At the risk of sounding negative, I think Monserrate is a little overrated. It’s very nice, but not really a must-visit kind of place. Maybe a visit-if-you’ve-got-a-free-afternoon-and-are-bored kind of place.
The cable car is always fun, and the area at the top of the mountain is quite lovely. However, there really isn’t much to it beyond that. You can visit the official website for more information.
Visit Quinta Bolívar, Simón Bolívar’s Former Home
Quinta Bolívar sits at the foot of the road leading up to Monserrate. This former home of Simón Bolívar is a must visit for both 19th century history buffs and fans of Latin American revolutionary heroes. It’s also kind of a cool place to see old furniture, as the house is laid out as it would have been in the early 1800s.
For those who don’t know, Simón Bolívar was the revolutionary hero that fought for independence against Spain. He’s credited as the liberator of Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Panamá and a major figure in South American history.
There’s a story that one night, while Bolívar was asleep, his enemies tried to assassinate him. They armed themselves and stormed his house with guns and swords and whatever else. Manuela Saenz, Bolívar’s lover and a brilliant revolutionary in her own right, stopped the attackers in the front hallway. This allowed Bolívar to climb out the window, along with his personal baker, and hide out under a bridge until he could reach safety the next day.
This exciting episode took place at Quinta Bolívar. I had a lot of fun trying to figure out which window it was exactly that he climbed out of.
Take a Day Trip to the Salt Cathedral at Zipaquirá
Bogotá is full of fantastic old cathedrals, but none are more fantastic than the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá. The town and cathedral are located a few hours north of Bogotá, and they make for an excellent day trip.
The salt cathedral is quite touristy, and it’s often very crowded. However, it’s also kind of amazing. Local miners carved the entire thing in an old salt mine, initially so they could pray for protection before heading deep underground. The complex developed over the years into the massive underground cathedral/shopping mall it is today.
You’ll find giant rock crosses and enormous chambers deep underground that evoke a feeling of awe similar to anything you’d find in any other religious site. I’m not a spiritual person whatsoever, but I definitely felt something wandering through the massive tunnels of the salt church.
Outside of the cathedral, the town of Zipaquirá is also a nice place to wander around for a bit. You can reach the cathedral and Zipaquirá from Bogotá’s Portal Norte bus terminal. Just ask for the bus going to “Zipa.”
You can find more information about the Salt Cathedral on the official website.
Wander Around the Botanical Gardens
Bogotá’s botanical gardens make for a lovely break from the concrete streets of the city. There’s something very calming about wandering amid the plants, flowers and trees. And you can do so without having to leave the city. Bogotá’s botanical gardens, officialy named El Jardín Botánico de Bogotá José Celestino Mutis showcases plants from all over Colombia, including the emblematic giant wax palm.
You can find the botanical gardens just to the northwest of Parque Metropolitano Simon Bolívar. Visit the official website for updated hours and costs (in Spanish).
Stroll with the Locals in Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar
Speaking of parks and natural areas within the city, Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar is also a lovely place to spend an afternoon. The park is a well-manicured green space full of meandering paths, a large lake and plenty of locals just out enjoying the day. In fact, walking around and watching Colombian families and couples out living their best lives is the best thing about the park.
They also have various events here, ranging from sand castle building competitions to hip-hop concerts and more. Parque Metropolitano Simón Bolívar is located in the middle of the Teusaquillo district.
Play Tejo
I’d never heard of tejo before I came to Colombia. It’s basically the world’s most awesome and completely badass game. You throw metal disks into a slab of clay. The team who gets closest to the middle wins.
It sounds simple, but tejo has an explosive surprise up its sleeve. Inside the clay slab are hidden tiny packets of gunpowder. If your metal disk hits one of these packets and detonates, you get extra points. Tejo is traditionally played with friends while drinking beer.
Bogotá has numerous tejo clubs (club de tejo) throughout the city. We went to one called Tejo Ancestral on Carrera 4 in La Candelaria. We were the only tourists there, but the staff was incredibly friendly and took the time to teach us how to play. It was a blast.
Visit one of Bogotá’s Many Wonderful Museums
Aside from everything else, Bogotá is home to Colombia’s best museums. It’s not New York or Paris (or Mexico City), but there are still plenty of museums to give the most enthusiastic museum afficionado fatigue. If you’re short on time, the Museo de Oro and Botero Museum are unmissable museums to visit on any trip to Bogotá.
Museo de Oro
Colombia’s gold museum is pretty consistently listed as the top thing to do in Bogotá, for good reason. This museum, owned and operated by the national bank, is pretty fantastic. The museum, as you may have guessed by the name, showcases gold. You’ll find hundreds of intricate pieces made by Colombia’s native peoples, such as the Muisca. It’s pretty astounding to see what expert metal workers they were.
Considering that the Spanish looted and melted down so much of the native gold, it’s kind of amazing that this museum exists at all. The museum also has a decent collection of indigenous pottery and other artifacts. It’s a fantastic place to learn about Colombia’s indigenous heritage and also to admire some ancient bling.
Visit the Museo de Oro’s official website for more hours and costs.
Museo Botero
Even the most casual art fan might recognize the works of Fernando Botero. His paintings, ranging from overly plump historical figures to overly plump still-lifes of fruit, are instantly recognizable. It’s safe to say Botero is Colombia’s most well-known visual artist.
In the year 2000, the artist himself donated over 200 works of art to the people of Colombia. Today, you can admire these works at the Botero Museum in Bogotá. I was passingly familiar with Botero before, but this museum turned me into a big fan. In addition to Botero’s works, the museum contains a lot of other pieces from the artist’s personal collection, including works from Picasso, Miro and other art luminaries.
The Botero Museum is located just a few blocks east of Plaza Bolívar on Calle 11. Visit the official website (solamente en Español) for more information.
The National Museum
If you want to learn a little more about the long and complex history of Colombia, you can head to El Museo Nacional, or the National Museum. The museum houses artifacts ranging from indigenous pre-Colombian sculptures to religious colonial paintings to telenovela advertisements.
It’s an interesting museum, but I have to warn you the signage isn’t always the most helpful. The museum is in the Santa Fe district on Avenida Carrera 7 between Calles 28 and 30. The official website has some information in English.
Museo Santa Clara
The Santa Clara Museum is unique in that it’s located in a converted 17th century Catholic church. The museum houses a collection of colonial artworks, as well as various displays of modern art. While we were there, they were showing some sculptures that were basically bits of fabric wrapped around various stands. Modern art can be hit or miss.
It’s kind of a neat museum, but maybe a bit pretentious and a little on the small side. However, it’s not a bad way to kill an hour in Bogotá. The museum is just south of Plaza Bolívar in La Candelaria, on Calle 9 and Carrera 8.
I usually like to travel and do activities independently, but sometimes you want to relax and let someone else take over. For those times, I suggest using Get Your Guide. Prices are reasonable and they have numerous tours available. Click here to explore options in Colombia. Tours booked through these links help support this blog at no extra cost to you.
Final Thoughts: Is Bogotá Worth Visiting?
The list of things to do in Bogotá might be the longest I’ve written on this blog, and I feel like I haven’t really scratched the surface. Bogotá has so much going on, it’s kind of astounding. I’ve been lucky to travel quite a bit in my life, and few places have knocked my socks off quite like Bogotá.
Aside from the world class museums, restaurants, bars, architecture and street art, Bogotá has an energy to it that really is infectious. It seems like the kind of city where things are actually happening. Cool artists are making art and even cooler musicians are making music. Yet, nothing about it felt pretentious or pompous. People were genuinely very friendly and welcoming, even to dorks like me.
So, yes, Bogotá is definitely worth visiting. Don’t let the negative media coverage or paranoia about crime scare you away. Bogotá is fantastic. In fact, I’d say that any trip to Colombia is incomplete without spending at least some time in this pulsating, vibrant capital city.
Ready to discover where else to go in Colombia? Check out our guide here: Covering Ground in Colombia: A Travel Guide to One of the World’s Most Magical Countries
