There are plenty of interesting things to do in Quetzaltenango, also known as Xela, if you know where to look. Okay, you actually don’t have to look that hard.

The city is manageably sized and a fascinating destination full of interesting places to visit. The colonial Spanish and gothic German buildings have a worn, tattered feel that contrasts nicely with the restored sheen of Antigua. On the other hand, Xela doesn’t quite have that hint of danger that follows you around Guatemala City.

Quetzaltenango is a nice middle ground for travelers who want a more authentic taste of Guatemala while still having a decent selection of hostels and plenty of things to do.

Things to Know Before You Visit Quetzaltenango

The first, and maybe most important, thing to know is that Quetzaltenango is also called by its old Mayan name: Xela. It’s pronounced sort of lake “shay-la.”

Why does this matter? For one, it’s actually much easier to say. This is also how the city will be announced on buses or at stations. Listen for the drivers or attendants shouting out “Xela! Xela! Xela!” at the top of their lungs. Besides, it’s always kinda cool to be able to use the original Mayan name for something.

Secondly, while Quetzaltenango is nowhere near as rough as other parts of Central America, or even Guatemala, there are still a few high crime areas and shady characters to look out for. For example, a local warned me away from some of the side streets a few blocks away from the Parque Central.

I’m also pretty sure I saw a real, live, gang member. He was driving a convertible, and had a maze of purple tattoos all over his face. He smiled and waved at me and drove off. Just to be on the safe side, stick to the streets where the people are and you’ll be fine.

Thirdly, be warned that the restaurant selection here is a bit more limited than elsewhere. Especially if you’re coming from Antigua or Lake Atitlán where your eating options seem comparably limitless. Maybe I just didn’t know where to look, but we had trouble finding good restaurants in Xela. However, the Parque Central is full of delicious street food, including some pretty fantastic tacos.

Finally, considering that Quetzaltenango sits at nearly 2,400 meters (7,900 feet) above sea level, it can be chilly. Pack a sweatshirt or light jacket. Also, keep in mind that it’s much more difficult to walk uphill at that altitude.

Don’t let any of this put you off. Quetzaltenango was one of our favorite cities in Guatemala. It’s a beautiful place and full of plenty of things to do.

The Best Things to Do in Quetzaltenango

Visit the Parque Central

Quetzaltenango’s Central Park is the heart of the city and almost always abuzz with activity. There are a few handsome buildings surrounding the park, but a visit here isn’t about checking out stuffy old architecture. It’s about experiencing vibrant, local Guatemalan life.

You might find an impromptu night market selling all manner of cheap plastic trinkets. There might also be a fair or carnival or sorts, full of colorful rides and flashing lights and screeching children. As I said above, the Parque Central is also the best place to eat in Xela. There’s always a crowd of street stalls selling fresh cooked tacos and local Guatemalan food for cheap.

Hike up Cerro El Baúl

Hiking up Cerro El Baúl was one of my favorite things to do in Quetzaltenango. The hill is actually a lava dome that dominates the surrounding valley. The top opens up on to sprawling panoramic views of the entire city of Xela. There’s also an obelisk honoring the Mayan hero, Tecún Umán.

You can catch a taxi from town for cheap (I don’t remember how much, exactly.) You can also walk here and back without too much trouble from the Parque Central. Or taxi up and hike down, depending on your knees. No matter how you climb up here, you’ll be rewarded not just with views of the city, but a lovely hike through a forested hillside and views of the charming surrounding countryside.

Wander Around the Cemetery

Strolling through the cemetery isn’t just for Goths and vampires. The cemetery is actually one of the best things to do in Quetzaltenango. Get lost amongst the elegant crypts and mausoleums that hark back to Xela’s glory days, and see the statues that mark where national heroes rest next to German coffee barons. Humbler tombs painted in bright colors line the cemetery walls and contrast with our macabre preconceptions of death.

Keep in mind that this is an active cemetery. It’s cool to walk around and take photos, but be respectful of the people who are here to visit the final resting places of their loved ones.

Also, we got chased around by some scary stray dogs here. Be careful, especially as you get off the main paths and never approach any animals you come across.

Walk Around Laguna Chicabal

There’s nothing quite like watching the morning mist climb over the ridge and slowly envelop the emerald green waters of a peaceful, volcanic lagoon. Take the time to visit here and you’ll see why the Mam Maya consider Laguna Chicabal to be sacred.

Best of all, the lagoon is a relatively simple day trip from downtown Xela. Take a bus to the village of San Martín Sacatepéquez. The village is actually pretty charming in its own right. From here, you can either climb the hill to the lagoon, or hire a pickup to drop you off at the top. The mist completely covers things by 10 or 11am, so arrive nice and early if you want the chance to see anything.

You can climb down from the rim of the volcano and walk around the lagoon at your leisure, or at least until it becomes too foggy to see. You’ll have stretches of the trail to yourself, but may come across locals performing rituals. Keep a respectful distance and don’t take pictures. Also, since the lagoon is considered sacred, swimming is strictly forbidden.

Soak in the Hot Springs of Fuentes Georginas

Fuentes Georginas are a set of atmospheric hot springs located in the green cloud forests nearby Quetzaltenango. The complex also has a set of wonderful, but very steep, trails that snake their way through the forest. You won’t get any epic views, but you will have plenty of time to admire the misty leaves, dripping moss and sprouting bromeliads. The resplendent Quetzal supposedly makes its home around here, but we didn’t see any.

You can get to Fuentes Georginas from the village of Zunil. Buses run there regularly from central Xela. Once you arrive at Zunil, you’ll have to hire a taxi to take you up the winding mountain road to the hot springs complex. The staff can call you a taxi back, or you can try your luck hitchhiking. Don’t forget to visit the hidden pool down the stairs below the rest of the complex.

Watch a Volcano Erupt at Mirador de Santiaguito

While many of the things to do in Quetzaltenango are possible on your own, this one requires a guide. Your hostel or any tour agency in town can arrange the trip.

I had a great time hiking up Volcán Pacaya from Antigua, but we had to share the trail with about twenty or thirty other tourists. Sometimes it felt like a million. When we hiked up to Santiaguito, our group just consisted of us and a Canadian couple. We didn’t see anyone else, aside from the occasional local farmer, on the trail.

We hiked up through dry forests and past small farms and pastures. As we climbed higher, we could see bits of grey ash dusting the leaves of the plants along the trail. Finally, the forest opened up to a view of the smoldering bare slopes of Volcán Santiaguito.

As we were admiring the view, we heard a noise like a jet engine and saw a cloud of ash and smoke burst out over the horizon. Santiaguito had erupted just for us.

The guide said it was safe, I swear.

Learn Spanish

Knowing a little bit of Spanish will take you a long way traveling through Guatemala and beyond. Guatemala is a great place to study Spanish. The accent is pretty clear and people are generally friendly and patient while you butcher their mother tongue trying to order a beer. In fact, the locals really appreciate you making the effort to communicate with them on their terms.

I had a tough time choosing between taking Spanish classes in Antigua or Xela when preparing for our trip. In the end, we went with the more popular option and studied in Antigua. I have no regrets, but I have heard good things from other people who’ve studied in Quetzaltenango. The classes are cheaper, and since it is less touristy, there’s less temptation to revert back to English.

Should You Visit San Andres Xecul?

Speaking of temptations, you might find yourself tempted to trek out to Xan Andres Xecul after seeing pictures of the village’s beautiful yellow church. I am a great lover of architecture, and have developed a real appreciation for gorgeous churches throughout my travels in Latin America.

Unfortunately, I have to say that this one isn’t worth it. It’s a pain in the ass to get to, and the church honestly looks much nicer in photos than it does in person. There are much better things to do in Quetzaltenango.

Ethical Travel in Quetzaltenango

Whether you’re visiting churches, cemeteries or sacred volcanic lagoons, be sure to have some respect for the local people worshiping there. They aren’t putting on these rituals for your enjoyment or your Tik Tok videos. They’re doing it as a sacred activity that holds a deep meaning for them. Show some respect and don’t interrupt.

Also, be very careful when choosing tour companies. There are a number of popular tourist agencies that don’t use local guides. Instead, they utilize European or North American volunteers. The big one that’s even mentioned in Lonely Planet is Quetzaltrekkers.

Quetzaltrekkers, and others like them, claim to be non-profits who give their earnings to charity. That may be true. But they don’t use local guides. By using foreign volunteers, these tour companies are directly taking jobs from local people who need regular, good paying, employment far more than they need charity.

Hiring local guides ensures your money goes directly to the local people. It can also help build the local economy and provide a more sustainable tourist industry. There’s nothing wrong with charity, necessarily, but there is something wrong with keeping people reliant on charity because you’re taking away their good paying jobs.

At the end of the day, you’ll be glad you visited Quetzaltenango. The city is an excellent base for day trips and there are more than enough things to do to keep you busy for four or five days or more. Xela might not have the restored glory of colonial Antigua, but it’s a great place to get a glimpse of everyday, not touristy Guatemala while still having access to tourist amenities. Win, win, win.

After you’ve had your fill of Quetzaltenango, check out my guide to the rest of Guatemala here: Go to Guatemala: A Travel Guide Without the Tourist Traps